I pick up my board. Zip up my wetsuit and make a beeline for the waves. I warm up by taking a few little waves as the tide turns from low to high i have done my dash and i am heading back in all day it has been britty bog standard until i see one building at the back i think to myself here's a go. As i paddel out fether the wave suddenly gets bigger and bigger i get to the top of it and i look down and think to myself is this a good idear. As i stand up on my board and i drop into it it feels like i am going faster than man has ever gone before i look behind me and it starts to barrel it looks magical i try go fast but the wave catches up with me so i take a big breath and fall of and paddle back to shore i think to myself that was a one of a lifetime opportunity.